Time Off

It is not only great guiding that sets the guides at IMCS apart from the many guide services in the Mount Washington Valley. Here at IMCS when we are not teaching others how to do what we love we are out ‘getting after it’, climbing harder, higher, and stronger.

In the beginning of this February IMCS guide Eitan Green went on his second trip to Maine’s Mount Katahdin. At 5,270 feet high Katahdin is Maine’s tallest peak and as Rick Wilcox writes, “the most rugged piece of granite east of the Rockies.

Eitan and three other climbers skied 13 miles and hiked another 3.3 miles to Chimney pond where they made their base camp. From chimney pond the group climbed about 1,500 feet of mixed rock and ice up the route Pamola IV. Katahdin offers spectacular alpine ice and mixed routes, some over 2,000 feet tall. For those who have been-there-done-that on Mount Washington, a trip to Katahdin is truly something special.

Ice Fest 2009

This year we proved that an army does march on its stomachs. Jam packed days of ice climbing with the pros were followed by food from NEIce's Doug Millen and beer provided by Tuckermans. When the food and beer were gone, we all got up early and did it again!

Ice Festers alpine climbed in Huntington's ravine, Mixed climbed at Trollville, and did some good ole' swingin' and kickin' at Frankenstein cliffs. Collectively, ice festers covered tens of thousands of feet of vertical terrain in the Mount Washington Valley. If you were there, you know how amazing the IceHoldz competition was as well as Kevin's slideshow about climbing Kantega, and I am sure you didn't miss the musical stylings of Audio Kickstand or Rick Wilcox's retro photos at Mammut's Knuckle Bash Dance Party.

If you did miss the ice fest, well, put it on your calender for next year right now, or, even better, give IMCS a call and schedual your own day of spectacular ice climbing or mountaineering in the Mount Washington Valley. For those who came, see you next year!

Oh Yeah, and a HUGE thanks to Anne S. and Sarah G., the Ice Fest masterminds for an incredible weekend!

Bring your Friends!

Going ice climbing is awesome. Having your friends cheer you on as you swing your tools is even better. At IMCS if you bring a group we can help you put together an ideal weekend group-adventure.

The intrepid members of the Colby College Outing Club from Waterville, Maine participated in a two day mountain skills course.

Jim F. teaches club members how to hang off their tools, Photo: Eitan G.

Club members learned mountaineering skills like self arrest and crampon techniques then spent the rest of the day swinging tools into frozen waterfalls. Tired but smiling, the Outing Club members went back to their hostel to prepare the second day's mountain adventure.

Colby College Outing Club members swing into the steep ice at the Texaco Area, photo: Eitan G.

On day two the club members split up into groups to tackle some of the exciting gully climbs in the Whites. Fun and adventure was had by all on Willey's Slide, Cauliflower Gully, Hitchcock Gully and in other areas. The smiles said it all.

Climbing with a group from a college, office, or any other organization is a great way to share an incredible adventure with friends. Have a group? give us a call!

Lauren of Minnesota cruises one of New Hampshire's classic gullies, photo: Eitan G.







William, Sarah, and Lauren, All smiles at the top of the gully, photo: Eitan G.




Colby College Outing Club, we hope to see you again soon!

Way Out There

When people think about winter adventures in New Hampshire they usually dwell on a few classics. Oft heard names like, Mount Washington, Crawford Notch, and Franconia Notch are home to some of the areas most popular hikes and climbs. These areas are popular for a two reasons, they are incredible and they get a lot of press! What many people don't know, is that there are plenty of other spectacular sites for adventure in the Whites that are as phenomenal. These hidden treasures simply don't have as good PR and as such, lack the hoards of weekend warriors that come through the notches.

IMCS Guide Maury Mckinney took his clients on a three-day, two-night winter backpacking excursion into the rugged Mahoosucs on the New Hampshire-Maine boarder. The group spent their days hiking through tranquil and seldom seen winter landscapes that stretched as if endless. As they hiked, the group didn't see a single other soul giving their experience a true wilderness flavor.














With so many years experience in the area, guides like Maury take clients to parts of the Whites they never even knew existed. Sure we can take you to the more popular winter mountaineering destinations. However, if you really want to tap into the knowledge your guide has to offer, consider an adventure, 'way out there'.

School on Vacation?!

While the guides at IMCS love to lead people up the climbs of their dreams we don't forget that we are a climbing school, not only a guide service, and we pride ourselves on our knowledge about climbing and ability to share that knowledge with others.

In fact, at any moment during a climb you could ask your guide what they are doing, why, and how and expect to learn something. Sure, we love to climb, but this is International Mountain Climbing School, we are here to teach.

Benni and Yitzi of the 'burbs of Boston take a break from swinging tools to learn about v-thread anchors, "look ma' no hands!"

A Spot O' Climbing in the Colonies

While some of David's limey colloquialisms left IMCS guide Eitan Green confused, after two days of spectacular New England gully climbing in Crawford Notch it was obvious what David of Bristol, UK meant when he smiled and said he was, "totally knackered".

David was looking for a winter mountain adventure that would remind him of his home stomping grounds on Scotland's Ben Nevis but that would step the technical climbing up a notch. Eitan chose Shoestring Gully on Mount
David cruising the Ice on Shoestring Gully
Photo: Eitan Green
Webster as the perfect site for David's

adventure. Luckily, the gully's southern aspect meant the two were exposed to the sun for the majority of the day and they stayed comfortable, despite the extremely cold temperatures.



The next day the pair took on Mount Willard's Hitchcock Gully which, though a bit shorter than Shoestring, stepped up the technical difficulties a bit. By the end of the two days David's huge grin and his invitation for a pint said it all. David on the exit gully at the top of Shoestring, still smiling
Photo: Eitan Green

Choose Your Line

Richard P. about to top out Repentance in" full conditions." -photo: Peter Doucette

What can I get in, or on, in a weekend?

It’s a question I hear frequently as climbing goals, life, and work schedules collide.

The answer, of course, varies a great deal with the skill set an individual has already developed. That said, an amazing transformation in one’s climbing  technique and enjoyment of the pursuit can take place in a couple days with a thoughtful choice of routes and the right progression.

My best climbs are those that teach me: routes that have required me to adapt my technique, find rests where I wasn’t sure they existed or ferret out not so obvious protection. This is the case, I think, no matter where you are in the spectrum of climbing skill or experience. On great climbs, there is always a move or set of moves that stretch your skills, strength and sense of cunning. Acknowledge challenges, recognize possibility, measure it against experience and commit… or back off and try a different way…or come back another time. As long as you’re getting after it, the process builds on itself. The right teacher, in the form of friend, guide, or mentor can accelerate the learning and help maintain a larger margin of safety.

Choosing climbs that teach you something, adventures that challenge you without being overwhelming is the main idea. This past weekend, I got out with Richard and we were able to climb some exceptional pitches and ultra classic terrain.

Saturday, we started by shaking off the cold and working the kinks out in the vicinity of Texaco Amphitheater. The air temp was –10 when we left IMCS in the morning, but by the time we had finished our half-hour approach, the coldest part of the day was behind us. We enjoyed the sun and the gradually softening ice as we explored a lot of single pitches and a huge variety of features. Pillars that dead ended under roofs, curtains spilling out from horizontal cracks and ice choked chimneys were ideal for getting footwork and balance dialed in.

Richard staying fresh at the top of one more steep pillar.  -photo: Peter Doucette   

Sunny and steep at Texaco.  -photos: Peter Doucette

After a day that focused on technique and movement over seven varied pitches, Richard had his “A Game” back and we set our sights on an ascent of Repentance, Sunday.

Rolling into the parking lot at Cathedral Ledge, it was clear that snow wasn't just the forecast, it was the reality. Fortunately, the 4 inches of fresh powder let us know there wasn’t anyone ahead of us. It continued to snow with amazing intensity and the day was regularly punctuated by cascades of spindrift. 

Repentance was in excellent shape and Richard fired the moves in good style the entire way.